Overshadowed by the figure of Napoleon, we honestly didn't know much about Victor Emmanuel II, and being fans of Roman history, we decided to keep it that way and head for Trajan's Column and skip past this monument.
After getting the overview from our son on how the Dacians can be played in Rome Total War after a simple hack of the game setup file (note Trajan's Column celebrated his victory over the Dacians), we headed up via Corso to wander around the part of the map that had a lot of numbered bubbles on it, sure that we would find something interesting.
In the daytime, it was the typical Rome walk, with older buildings, shops, and a church on every block. At nighttime on the way back, it was a whole different experience!
It was interesting watching the intricate dance between pedestrians and vehicles. On the big roads, like via Corso and Piazza Venezia, the cars, buses, and motorcycles have a definite advantage. Once you turn into the side streets and alleys, even the Vespas can be bullied into slowing down by a nun with an attitude.
Next stop was the Trevi Fountain, where people gather to toss coins in. Based on the number of people, it's likely a good concession for the Church.
At this point, you can see that we are being sucked along the classic walking tour of Rome tourist traps. Simply follow the lines of Bangladeshi hawkers trying to sell various toys made of toxic plastic from China, and you can't get lost. Next stop, the Spanish Steps.
After wandering around the Borghese Gardens for a bit, we were inevitably pulled back onto the Tourist Trail and headed down Via Flaminia to the Piazza del Popolo. Like the conquering generals returning from the north before him, our son had a good night in Rome Total War yesterday evening, and wanted to walk through the Porta del Popolo.
The Egyptian Obelisk is a nice touch.
Still on the Tourist Trail, we were immediately surrounded by more Bangladeshi hawkers. Look at how my wife manages to appear firm and yet still show concern for the well being of this smiling and friendly chap as she rejected him with two words. From where I stood taking the picture, I couldn't quite tell if she said "No, grazie" or "F--- Off".
Next stop, a nondescript restaurant in the tourist area, then into one of the many confectionery shops for a snack.
To throw the street vendors off of our track, we had to take a sudden and dramatic turn off of the Tourist Trail. We managed this by heading down to the river, and slipping unnoticed into the Museo Napoleonico.
Finally in his element, our son went from complaining about his feet to scooting from exhibit to exhibit like a ground squirrel gathering nuts, audio tour glued firmly to his ear.
We knew that we were no longer in the tourist zone when we noticed the easy-to-find, clean bathrooms with toilet paper and soap and a working hand dryer! There has been a distinct lack of such things in every other museum and some restaurants near tourist areas that we've visited.
An additional bonus, it is not often that one gets the chance to go in Napoleon's Water (Loo) Closet, so we formed our own queue and took advantage!
Like tourist ninjas we headed down back alleys to return to the bus stop. Slipping through the Piazza Navona unnoticed by hawkers, we enjoyed taking in what seems to be a Sunday feature in Rome - the open air market.
Finally emerging back on the tourist trail, we popped out next to the Pantheon - a spectacular sight at night!
A long wait for a short bus ride on the 130, and we were back to the apartment, rubbing our feet and working out the next day's journey.
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